Makran Coastal Highway is Safe Even for Families

Asked

Dear Muzamil,

Just read your articles on the road trips that you made on the Makran coastal highway. They are very informative so thank you for that. I also want to experience the journey right till gawadar however, I would like to seek your advice mainly on the security situation; especially if you are from Punjab (Lahore). I have recently, shifted to Karachi and desperately wanted to travel on on MCH however, almost everybody whom he sought the advice, has advised me against the idea. Mainly because I am from Lahore (hence a Punjabi despite being a native Urdu speaker).

I just wanted to seek your advice mainly because you have been there on more than one occasion so can share your first hand experience about security for somebody who has NIC from punjab..does it really matter if you disclose or get disclosed that you are a Punjabi? Do they really check your NIC? Because otherwise I can speak really fluent Urdu (this being my mother language). The rest of the factors like road condition, fuel, food, hotel does not matter as I am an experienced traveller and can manage all that.

You can either write back on we can talk on the phone. my cell is xxxxxxxxxxx. Or else, let me have yours and I will give you a call at a time of your convenience.

Thanks a lot in advance,

HS  

Replied

Dear HS

Thanks for your email and visiting my travel blog.

I understand your concern regarding safety especially from the ethnic angle. This is true that there is not much liking of Punjabis, justified or not, in parts of Baluchistan.

While having a take on Baluchistan's security, this is important to remember that the province is too big for a simple generalization. Makran Coast is nowhere close to Dera Bugti, not only security wise but geographically also as the distance between two towns is 1,300km! The coastal belt is largely isolated from the rest of the province hence making it immune from most of the happenings, and hate feelings. Furthermore, inhabitants are generally peaceful fishermen who have been attached to this profession since centuries and have been doing that quite peacefully.

The only significant outlet from Makran Coast, other than the RCD Highway, is the town of Turbat, which is located North of Pasni. Although there had been security incidents in Turbat in the recent past but I don't consider that a big risk especially if you don't plan to stay, or visit, Pasni. Personally, I have been to Pasni a couple of time, both times with Panjabi friends, and did not find out anything of concern. At one occasion we stayed with Maritime people and they were indeed concerned about the security.

So this might be the only place where you may like to be cautious, but not over-cautious.

Coming to the ethnic thing, and about people suggesting you against traveling, let me share that I was also given these warnings whenever I planned a trip to the Coastal Highway, mostly from people who have never traveled there and neither have a plan to do that!

Believe me, nobody will be really bothered to know if you are a Punjabi, unless you tell them yourself, however, they might be interested in knowing the place you are coming from. Nobody is checking NIC except for the security checks of various government agencies, which is assuring in itself.

Having said all that, I would suggest taking precautions, such as wearing shalwar kameez, planning your stops beforehand, being polite to locals, keeping a low profile, and avoiding political discussions. In fact, I noticed that if you show some sympathy about their plight you get more favorable and friendly response.

So these are my two cents worth, hopefully helpful.

If you need any further assistance, please feel free to write back or contact me at 0300206260. It will be my pleasure to help you.

Have a great trip

Muzzammil

Asked

Hi Muzamil,

Thanks for a very honest, prompt and comprehensive advice. Your words have definitely strengthened my resolve to finally travel on MCH. And I might do it sooner rather than later (may be the coming weekend). I have noted your cell and might bother you for some advice on stops and spots worth visiting etc. Although you have already done enough to wipe any doubts in my mind about this ethnic disturbance in Baluchistan and I might sound like an idiot to keep bragging about the same issue, but it is just that besides my NIC, my car also has Punjab number plates and the word 'Punjab' appears quite prominently on it :). I hope that would not cause an issue, especially when i reach a town like omara or gawadar (a might skip Pasni in my first trip). Or would you advise to use a Karachi number plate car (from rent a car)?.

Thanks again for all your help

Replied

You are most welcome Hasan :-) In fact I am pleased to know that you found my too long response relevant and helpful.

The concern about security is never exaggerated. When I travel I try to manage security rather than ignoring and the first step towards managing is having maximum information about the ground realities.

Imo, Punjab number plates is indeed an issue. I believe there will be absolutely no problem uptil Ormara, as the route is very thinly populated and you will sparingly see human beings let alone observers. Beyond that might not be a big problem either, especially when you are skipping Pasni but Pasni-Gwadar is 'relatively' busy so you may find observers. So it actually leaves roaming around Gwadar a major issue. Yes you will be noticed and though will not be bothered by ordinary people, which I must reiterate are usually friendly and not hostile. However, it might give a legitimate target to miscreants because of their perceptions.

The alternative of renting a car is also having its own risk. Firstly you will be depending on something which you have not used, which is a risk in its own on this route. Please don't ignore this risk. This road might be one of the least inhabited roads in the world with almost non-existent road facilities and absolutely no emergency rescue. However, if you feel that this is the only option, than only rent a car from Karachi-Gwadar operators - you will find their offices along Karachi-Gwadar bus companies. I have observed that Karachi-Quetta bus companies do run corolla services, or partner with them, which should be the case for Gwadar also.

As I mentioned, I will still prefer taking my own car, with some modifications with the number plate; put a sticker where "Punjab" is written and it shall be ok imo. Or do something else to that effect.

Keep in touch.

Muzzammil

Asked

Thanks a lot for the valuable tips Muzammil. Really helpful indeed. As this would be my first time so I think it a better option not to use my Punjab registration car. I might lend from a colleague or relative for a weekend  and go and see who the ground situation is and if all goes well only then I might consider taking my own car. But thank you for taking the time out to explain in detail about your experience and tips. I might call you before setting off to get some more tips.

Feedback

I visited the makran coastal highway till hingol national park and pasni following your advice using the Islamabad number plate car with wify and kids. it was a wonderful experience and found no security issues at all. In fact people were very kind and hospitable. Your tips really helped. So thanks a lot for that advice.