Gwadar's Current Security Situation

Asked

Salam,

This is S. I live in Lahore and planning to visit Gwadar. Do you think it is safe these days to travel?

Many thanks in advance,

Replied

W'salam Saheem

Imo, Gwadar's security situation is not much different from past.

One can still visit the place with appropriate precautions:
- keep it low profile
- time it well
- be gentle to locals

First major security nuisance is Hub, which can be managed by passing it without a stop.
Afterwards it's pretty smooth till Ormara. This part of the journey is the most beautiful also. You can make a sojourns - at Kund Malir beach, Princess of Hope, and Buzzi Pass - in addition to making a manageable detour of Nani Mandir. If you've a contact in Pakistan Navy then visiting their Ormara base, especially the hammerhead PNS Ahsan, can be a lifetime experience.

From Ormara to Gwadar I usually find it monotonous. Pasni is situated midway of this portion, however, I see little reason to visit the place mostly because of the security situation which arises because of its connectivity with Turbat, a relatively troubled town in Balochistan.

Once you're in Gwadar things will be much simpler than you'd have expected.

The bigger issue imo is the almost absolute lack of road side facilities along the way. You may also already know the need to carry extra fuel with you.

Hope this is helpful. Feel free to email me should you've more questions.

Regards

Muzzammil

Asked

Thank you Muzamil for writing back quickly. Since I will be coming from Lahore (and would only want to travel through coastal highway because your article / beauty of the area inspired to do so). Otherwise I would prefer taking my flight from Lahore to Gwadar.

Could you please further suggest if I should take a little risk and use the coastal highway to enjoy the beauty of the area, or rather take the flight directly from Lahore to Gwadar.

If you think I can easily travel on Costal Highway from Karachi (by first taking a flight from Lahore to Karachi, and then using costal highway), what mode of transport would you recommend.  Since I won't be using my personal car, should I prefer taking a rent a car / jeep etc., or use public transport i.e. coaster / 10 seater etc.

Many thanks,

 

Replied

 

My pleasure S

I'm also glad that you found my postings inspirational.

You've already picked it right - the crux is Makran Coastal Highway. Personally, I've done that by own car all the time I visited. This is by far the most preferred way for me on this route.

Alternatively, there is a bus service also which can be taken from Karachi.

Hiring a car can also be an option.

Since you don't plan to use your own car, you can take the flight from Gwadar on the way back.
Whichever way you do that, you'll surely having a great time.

Regards

Muzzammil
 

Asked

Thanks a lot Sir. Hiring a car (w.r.t. to expense / money) is not a problem for me. I am very comfortable in hiring a car / jeep (as you have suggested to taste the desert safari on the way), as long as this option is safer.

In case you know anyone (rent a car etc.), I can take more help near to the date of my arrival (I am planning to visit during the first week of September).

Best,

 

Replied

 

My pleasure

There are usually 'car services' besides the coach-walas. I'd trust them more because they run only on that route and more economical. Other rent services might not be that reliable because usually they are experts of normal routes.

And sure, you can contact me once your plan is firm.

Further, I'd suggest looking into PakWheels.com vacation's section (forum).

Thanks

Muzzammil

Asked

Many thanks once again for all the guidance you are providing. I am just wondering, would it be possible for us to Skype at some point for me to clearly tell my visit plans / needs.

Replied

Yaar I've not been using Skype, etc. Still living in stone age, hehe, so email (muzamil79@gmail.com) is by far the best mode to contact me.

 

Asked

 

Thanks ..

Replied

You are most welcome :-)

Ormara Guidance

Asked

Hello I am planning to visit ormara beach via, Kund Malir and Winder. can you please guide me about current security situation? and is it better to stay at night on Kund Malir Beach ? In case we are planning our trip to ormara? what re the suggested timings to leave from Karachi ?

Replied

can you please guide me about current security situation?

Security is not as bad as hyped up in the media but off-course there are risks which can be managed by planning well. I would suggest wearing shalwar kameez and let the beard grow a bit, so that you can blend into the environment. Plan your stopovers beforehand to minimize the risk. People usually avoid stopping at Hub, which makes sense to me, except for re-fueling. There are multiple security checks en-route, cooperate with them, and in fact when I go I do ask them about the security issue ahead and give attention to their word. Overall, the route is uninhabited with a strong presence of Navy, especially around Ormara, so around Makran Coast you will not find yourself insecure. On the other hand, please drive carefully as this is sort of a freeway and there are no rescue options available. This is a bigger risk imo. Keep drinking water, extra fuel, etc with you.

and is it better to stay at night on Kund Malir Beach ? In case we are planning our trip to ormara?

I have never stayed at Kund Malir Beach, though I wanted to, but there are no accommodation. I know people who stayed there with their camps, so if you are used to it, then it is a possibility. You need to register with the Coast Guard, in case of nigh stay, who will keep your CNICs and return that to you the next morning. However, this is not recommended if you have not camped before in the wilderness.

The only other alternative for the night stay is Navy's mess at Ormara, which is off-course feasible if you have a connection in the forces.

what re the suggested timings to leave from Karachi?

If you are going for a day trip, i.e. same day return which is possible and I have done that a multiple times, then leave as early as possible. I'd suggest 4am, so that you will be there at the Coastal Highway around Sunrise. If this is a 2 days trip, even then don't leave later than 8am.

Below are some of my previous experiences which you will find helpful:

http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2010/09/makran-coastal-highway-karachi-to-pak.html
http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2012/02/karachi-to-gwadar-survival-tips.html
http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2010/10/chicken-karhai-on-makran-coastal.html
http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2012/02/trip-report-cruising-through-great.html
http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2010/09/one-road-two-thousand-kilometers-in.html

Hope you will find it helpful. Please feel free to ask if you have more questions.

Cheers and have a fun trip.

Muzzammil

Asked 

Firstly Thanks a lot for your kind response. I appreciate the way you facilitate me 😊
Secondly your suggestion are so helpful for me and I visited this place twice earlier in 2010 and late in 2009 but never did camping. so for now I am leaving that option. I will make my trip for one day that will starts from 4am. (Inshallah) as per your suggestion. I never  had a chance to visit  Buzi Pass and ormara. so this time I am planning to visit those places also, kindly give me some guidance regarding routes and how much time and fuel will it take to visit Ormara, as we have no fuel pumps out there in entire Coastal highway.
Is it fine to visit Nani Mandir, next to hingol river ??
is it worthy to visit Ormara beach or you suggest to keep my journey reserved only to Kund Malir or maximum to Buzi Pass?

 

Replied

My pleasure Ahsan and I'm glad that you found my postings helpful.

Here goes response to your questions, hopefully not too late:

this time I am planning to visit those places also, kindly give me some guidance regarding routes and how much time and fuel will it take to visit Ormara, as we have no fuel pumps out there in entire Coastal highway.

Ormara is 80km from Kund Malir. So if you go non-stop then it will take an hour. However, if you stop around Buzi Pass and Princess of Hope then add another 1 hour. Since road is good it must not take more than 15 liters of extra fuel; keep 20 maximum. And keep a funnel with you, or alternatively you may stop by the make-shift fuel dhabaas and seek their help for funnel. There are a couple of pumps around Ormara but all sell low quality fuel which I would not like to rely on.

Is it fine to visit Nani Mandir, next to hingol river ??

Yes, it is absolutely fine and highly recommended. I took my coure all the way to Mandir and other friends have done that too and none reported any problems.

is it worthy to visit Ormara beach or you suggest to keep my journey reserved only to Kund Malir or maximum to Buzi Pass?

The best part of Ormara, i.e hammerhead at PNS Ahsan, lies with the Navy. Other than this also, I would recommend visiting Ormara since you have already been to Kind Malir. The beach is right at the main road near Ormara's main square and has great views with hammerhead in the background. There is a truck hotel too where you can have food and tea.

As far as the itinerary is concerned, I'd it the following way:

1. Karachi to Ormara, non-stop except for refueling and tea, leaving Buzi Pass for the return journey.

2. Ormara to Buza Pass.

3. Buzi Pass to Hingol, and there I will take decision to visit Nani Mandir keeping in view the time available. Keep 2 hours for that.

4  Hingol to Karachi. I would prefer crossing Hub not later than sunset.

So these are my two cents worth. Please do ask if you have more questions and please do share your experience once you are back.

Regards

Muzzammil

Asked

I’ve gone through all your instructions and found them very useful, In sha Allah I will leave early morning in coming xxxx with prioritizing your useful tips on primary basis. 😊 Of course once I would be back I will share my experience.
Thanks a lot  for your useful help just answer to my last question that we are planning to take fried rice with roasted chicken along with us on this journey. kindly suggest us that it is better to take food from here? as none of us is aware of cooking. I know there are no Dhabb’as kind of thing till Buzi pass. and another thing is that my friends are forcing me to travel before sunrise as they want to see star gazing and sunrise on Kund Malir beach.
Check my Plan and guide me if I am missing anything: (Travelling hours are expected)

Leaving time 0100
Kund Malir 0600 (stay)

Buzi Pass 1000 (short stay for canyons)

Ormara 1100 (stay at beach)

0200 Kund Malir (Desert exploring)
0300 Nani Mandir

0500 (way Back to Karachi)

 

we will take 40 liters of water in portable water coolers, Cold drinks along with chips and biscuits, Roasted chicken with chicken fried rice and planning to have a cup of tea in between different hotels.

Looking forward for your reply 😊
Thanks a lot for such a kind response.

Replied

Thanks a lot  for your useful help just answer to my last question that we are planning to take fried rice with roasted chicken along with us on this journey. kindly suggest us that it is better to take food from here? as none of us is aware of cooking. I know there are no Dhabb’as kind of thing till Buzi pass

My pleasure. Regarding food, you may take it with you but I might go without food 1) to keep it light and 2) I found and tried a decent truck hotel right on Hingol bridge, before Buzi Pass. Once we even had live Chicken Karhai and absolutely loved that. There is a clean toilet also, which is a big luxury in the wilderness, so do ask for the keys from the waiter. At Ormara, you will find more options, but I have not tried any. It would be important to mention here that you may not need to go in the Ormara town, unless you would like to explore that, as the beach is on the main road. For en-route tea, I would suggest stopping at the dhaba located right at the junction of RCD Highway (the Quetta Road) and Makran Coastal Highway, and will highly advice not to stop-by at other places.

and another thing is that my friends are forcing me to travel before sunrise as they want to see star gazing and sunrise on Kund Malir beach.
Check my Plan and guide me if I am missing anything: (Travelling hours are expected)

Leaving time 0100 (Saturday)
Kund Malir 0600 (stay)

Buzi Pass 1000 (short stay for canyons)

Ormara 1100 (stay at beach)

0200 Kund Malir (Desert exploring)
0300 Nani Mandir

0500 (way Back to Karachi)

This is exactly how I would like to do that!
Have fun and have a safe journey.

Muzzammil

and here goes the hotel where we had Chicken Karhai from:

http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2010/10/chicken-karhai-on-makran-coastal.html