Asked
Dear Muzamil,
Just read your articles on the road
trips that you made on the Makran coastal highway. They are very informative so
thank you for that. I also want to experience the journey right till gawadar
however, I would like to seek your advice mainly on the security situation;
especially if you are from Punjab (Lahore). I have recently, shifted to Karachi
and desperately wanted to travel on on MCH however, almost everybody whom he sought
the advice, has advised me against the idea. Mainly because I am from Lahore
(hence a Punjabi despite being a native Urdu speaker).
I just wanted to seek your advice
mainly because you have been there on more than one occasion so can share your
first hand experience about security for somebody who has NIC from punjab..does
it really matter if you disclose or get disclosed that you are a Punjabi? Do
they really check your NIC? Because otherwise I can speak really fluent Urdu
(this being my mother language). The rest of the factors like road condition,
fuel, food, hotel does not matter as I am an experienced traveller and can
manage all that.
You can either write back on we can
talk on the phone. my cell is xxxxxxxxxxx. Or else, let me have yours and I will
give you a call at a time of your convenience.
Thanks a lot in advance,
HS
Replied
Dear HS
Thanks for your email and visiting my travel blog.
I understand your concern regarding safety especially from
the ethnic angle. This is true that there is not much liking of Punjabis,
justified or not, in parts of Baluchistan.
While having a take on Baluchistan's security, this is
important to remember that the province is too big for a simple generalization.
Makran Coast is nowhere close to Dera Bugti, not only security wise but
geographically also as the distance between two towns is 1,300km! The coastal
belt is largely isolated from the rest of the province hence making it immune
from most of the happenings, and hate feelings. Furthermore, inhabitants are
generally peaceful fishermen who have been attached to this profession since
centuries and have been doing that quite peacefully.
The only significant outlet from Makran Coast, other than
the RCD Highway, is the town of Turbat, which is located North of Pasni.
Although there had been security incidents in Turbat in the recent past but I
don't consider that a big risk especially if you don't plan to stay, or visit,
Pasni. Personally, I have been to Pasni a couple of time, both times with Panjabi
friends, and did not find out anything of concern. At one occasion we stayed
with Maritime people and they were indeed concerned about the security.
So this might be the only place where you may like to be
cautious, but not over-cautious.
Coming to the ethnic thing, and about people suggesting you
against traveling, let me share that I was also given these warnings whenever I
planned a trip to the Coastal Highway, mostly from people who have never
traveled there and neither have a plan to do that!
Believe me, nobody will be really bothered to know if you
are a Punjabi, unless you tell them yourself, however, they might be interested
in knowing the place you are coming from. Nobody is checking NIC except for the
security checks of various government agencies, which is assuring in itself.
Having said all that, I would suggest taking precautions,
such as wearing shalwar kameez, planning your stops beforehand, being polite to
locals, keeping a low profile, and avoiding political discussions. In fact, I
noticed that if you show some sympathy about their plight you get more
favorable and friendly response.
So these are my two cents worth, hopefully helpful.
If you need any further assistance, please feel free to
write back or contact me at 0300206260. It will be my pleasure to help you.
Have a great trip
Muzzammil
Asked
Hi Muzamil,
Thanks for a very honest, prompt and
comprehensive advice. Your words have definitely strengthened my resolve to
finally travel on MCH. And I might do it sooner rather than later (may be the
coming weekend). I have noted your cell and might bother you for some advice on
stops and spots worth visiting etc. Although you have already done enough to
wipe any doubts in my mind about this ethnic disturbance in Baluchistan and I might
sound like an idiot to keep bragging about the same issue, but it is just that
besides my NIC, my car also has Punjab number plates and the word 'Punjab'
appears quite prominently on it :). I hope that would not cause an issue,
especially when i reach a town like omara or gawadar (a might skip Pasni in my
first trip). Or would you advise to use a Karachi number plate car (from rent a
car)?.
Thanks again for all your help
Replied
You are most welcome Hasan :-) In fact I am pleased to know
that you found my too long response relevant and helpful.
The concern about security is never exaggerated. When I
travel I try to manage security rather than ignoring and the first step towards
managing is having maximum information about the ground realities.
Imo, Punjab number plates is indeed an issue. I believe
there will be absolutely no problem uptil Ormara, as the route is very thinly
populated and you will sparingly see human beings let alone observers. Beyond
that might not be a big problem either, especially when you are skipping Pasni
but Pasni-Gwadar is 'relatively' busy so you may find observers. So it actually
leaves roaming around Gwadar a major issue. Yes you will be noticed and though
will not be bothered by ordinary people, which I must reiterate are usually
friendly and not hostile. However, it might give a legitimate target to
miscreants because of their perceptions.
The alternative of renting a car is also having its own
risk. Firstly you will be depending on something which you have not used, which
is a risk in its own on this route. Please don't ignore this risk. This road
might be one of the least inhabited roads in the world with almost non-existent road facilities and absolutely no emergency rescue. However, if you feel that
this is the only option, than only rent a car from Karachi-Gwadar operators -
you will find their offices along Karachi-Gwadar bus companies. I have observed
that Karachi-Quetta bus companies do run corolla services, or partner with
them, which should be the case for Gwadar also.
As I mentioned, I will still prefer taking my own car, with
some modifications with the number plate; put a sticker where
"Punjab" is written and it shall be ok imo. Or do something else to
that effect.
Keep in touch.
Muzzammil
Asked
Thanks a lot for the valuable tips
Muzammil. Really helpful indeed. As this would be my first time so I think it a
better option not to use my Punjab registration car. I might lend from a
colleague or relative for a weekend and go and see who the ground
situation is and if all goes well only then I might consider taking my own car.
But thank you for taking the time out to explain in detail about your
experience and tips. I might call you before setting off to get some more tips.
Feedback
I visited the makran coastal highway
till hingol national park and pasni following your advice using the Islamabad
number plate car with wify and kids. it was a wonderful experience and found no
security issues at all. In fact people were very kind and hospitable. Your tips
really helped. So thanks a lot for that advice.
