Showing posts with label Pakistan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pakistan. Show all posts

Monday, May 18, 2015

Taking Your Own Car to Kutton, or Not?

TA Asked

Dear Muzzammil,
 
I am planning to visit Kashmir with my family, hence, I am looking for some current information about the situation and road conditions.
 
In this regard, I came across your Blog named Muzzammil's Travels and glad to know your detailed info about the Valleys.

In fact, I once crossed Noori Nar Peak around 16500 ft from Athhmukam to Jalkhad Kaghan Valley and in the mean time I visited Kel cantonment area too in 1988.

It's long time passed so I wanna know the current information of the area.

I am intending to visit Kutton, Kundal Shahi (Jagran Resort) by my Corolla XLI Car in June.
I would like you to please share your experience and guidance.
 
Is it possible to reach Kutton by car?

Thanks

TA
 
Muzzammil Replied

Dear TA

Thanks for your email and visiting my travel blog.

Yes, it is possible to visit Kutton by your own car, and most people do that way. Sometimes, due to rain and landsliding, which can happen anytime, Kutton - Kundal Shahi road gets blocked and takes time to get restored for vehicular traffic. This was what happened with us during our visit last time. To avoid this, one can park their car in Kundal Shahi. Regular taxis (cars) are available easily from Kundal Shahi to Kutton, and even if there is a landslide, one can cross over without much problems, like we did.

You can even reach Kutton, Jagran Resort, by you own car and then send/take the car downhill to Kundal Shahi for parking as there is no need of a car as such when in Kutton. For visiting Jagran Power House one needs a four-wheeler anyways.

Also, when we visited, the resort staff warned in advance about the flood, so people with their own cars had enough time to leave the place.

I believe you are aware of the advanced booking procedure for Jagran Resort.

These are my two cents worth.

Regards

Muzzammil

Sunday, January 4, 2015

A Czech Wants to Visit the Makran Coastal Highway

Asked

Dear Muzzammil,

I have read your very interesting and valuable posts on your blog and on LP Thorn Tree. Thanks a lot for posting for all the travel community.

I fly to Karachi next week and my plan is to hire a car and go by Makran Coastal Highway to Gwadar and back (I do not have much time). I thought no special permit is needed for this trip but now I am not sure. Would you please know what is the situation? Do I need any special permit other than visa?

Thanks a lot and if you ever visit Prague, Czech Republic, let me know.

Regards

Replied

Dear D
Thanks for your email and your kind words about my posts. I'm glad that you are visiting Pakistan.
Makran Coastal Highway offers great scenery and untouched beaches. Definitely worth going, Hiring a car is probably the next big way to do it after self driving. So it is a go, imo.
Regarding the permit, I do not know of any such requirement for Gwadar. However, I can understand where you are coming from. Even if there is no requirement still then there is a chance that security forces might bug you on the way and try to stop you as well. They will be more interested in knowing your purpose of visit and 'only for the sake of traveling' might not be a convincing reason for them. However, if there is some 'business' then they might be more understanding.
Unless there is a specific reason for you to go all the way to Gwadar, I may suggest an alternate. One can make a day trip to Buzi Pass and then return back to Karachi by evening. This will be almost half way to Gwadar and most of the enroute wonders could be covered until this place.
And thanks for your kind offer regarding Prague, which is indeed a beautiful place and on my list from some time. Hopefully I will be visiting some time in the near future.
 
Happy travels
Muzzammil

Sunday, August 10, 2014

Gwadar's Current Security Situation

Asked

Salam,

This is S. I live in Lahore and planning to visit Gwadar. Do you think it is safe these days to travel?

Many thanks in advance,

Replied

W'salam Saheem

Imo, Gwadar's security situation is not much different from past.

One can still visit the place with appropriate precautions:
- keep it low profile
- time it well
- be gentle to locals


First major security nuisance is Hub, which can be managed by passing it without a stop.
Afterwards it's pretty smooth till Ormara. This part of the journey is the most beautiful also. You can make a sojourns - at Kund Malir beach, Princess of Hope, and Buzzi Pass - in addition to making a manageable detour of Nani Mandir. If you've a contact in Pakistan Navy then visiting their Ormara base, especially the hammerhead PNS Ahsan, can be a lifetime experience.

From Ormara to Gwadar I usually find it monotonous. Pasni is situated midway of this portion, however, I see little reason to visit the place mostly because of the security situation which arises because of its connectivity with Turbat, a relatively troubled town in Balochistan.

Once you're in Gwadar things will be much simpler than you'd have expected.

The bigger issue imo is the almost absolute lack of road side facilities along the way. You may also already know the need to carry extra fuel with you.

Hope this is helpful. Feel free to email me should you've more questions.

Regards

Muzzammil

Asked

Thank you Muzamil for writing back quickly. Since I will be coming from Lahore (and would only want to travel through coastal highway because your article / beauty of the area inspired to do so). Otherwise I would prefer taking my flight from Lahore to Gwadar.
Could you please further suggest if I should take a little risk and use the coastal highway to enjoy the beauty of the area, or rather take the flight directly from Lahore to Gwadar.

If you think I can easily travel on Costal Highway from Karachi (by first taking a flight from Lahore to Karachi, and then using costal highway), what mode of transport would you recommend.  Since I won't be using my personal car, should I prefer taking a rent a car / jeep etc., or use public transport i.e. coaster / 10 seater etc.

Many thanks,
 
Replied
 
My pleasure S

I'm also glad that you found my postings inspirational.

You've already picked it right - the crux is Makran Coastal Highway. Personally, I've done that by own car all the time I visited. This is by far the most preferred way for me on this route.

Alternatively, there is a bus service also which can be taken from Karachi.

Hiring a car can also be an option.

Since you don't plan to use your own car, you can take the flight from Gwadar on the way back.
Whichever way you do that, you'll surely having a great time.

Regards

Muzzammil
 
Asked

Thanks a lot Sir. Hiring a car (w.r.t. to expense / money) is not a problem for me. I am very comfortable in hiring a car / jeep (as you have suggested to taste the desert safari on the way), as long as this option is safer.
In case you know anyone (rent a car etc.), I can take more help near to the date of my arrival (I am planning to visit during the first week of September).

Best,
 
Replied
 
My pleasure

There are usually 'car services' besides the coach-walas. I'd trust them more because they run only on that route and more economical. Other rent services might not be that reliable because usually they are experts of normal routes.

And sure, you can contact me once your plan is firm.

Further, I'd suggest looking into PakWheels.com vacation's section (forum).

Thanks

Muzzammil

Asked

Many thanks once again for all the guidance you are providing. I am just wondering, would it be possible for us to Skype at some point for me to clearly tell my visit plans / needs.

Replied

Yaar I've not been using Skype, etc. Still living in stone age, hehe, so email (muzamil79@gmail.com) is by far the best mode to contact me.
 
Asked
 
Thanks ..

Replied

You are most welcome :-)

Monday, August 4, 2014

Chitral, Gilgit, and Skardu with Family

Asked

Dear Muzzamil,

I have seen your blog regarding Chitral and Gilgit, which I really liked.

I would like to visit Chitral, Gilgit and Skardu with my family. I am Lahore based. Please advise which route could you suggest? Could we take Daewoo from Lahore? I look forward to hear from you.

Regards

Replied
Hi there

Thanks for your email. I'm glad that you liked my blog.

Chitral, Gilgit, and Skardu are great traveling destinations. In fact, we Pakistanis should feel lucky that we have natural beauty in this much abundance. However, while visiting these places it should be taken into consideration that transport is not easy in this part of the country, especially with the family, and distances are also long. For instance, Rawalpindi to Gilgit is almost 24 hours by road!
Also, there is no Daewoo to any of the destinations you mentioned.

Therefore, I'd suggest to target one destination at a time. Please let me know that so that I can assist you more.

By the way, have you been to other destinations in Pakistan, e.g. Swat, Kaghan Valley, Kashmir, etc which are easier to approach?
 Thanks

Muzzammil


Asked Again

Dear Muzamil

Thanks for your quick response.

Do you think  his one could travel by car? Is it safe? Yes, we have been to swat, naran, kaghan and muzaffarabad etc.

I will wait for your experience in Neelam Valley, which I believe is more easily accessible. By the way, if I could reach Chitral, how difficult it will be to take a transport for Gilgit etc and back to Islamabad?

Best regards
Replied

My pleasure.

I seriously doubt that one can go to Chitral by car. Lowari Pass, or Lowari Tunnel, is the major hurdle. While Chitral-Gilgit is certainly impossible by car.

For Chitral, the best is to take overnight coaster from Rawalpindi.

From Chitral to Gilgit, first one has to take jeep to Mastuj then NATCO bus, or jeep, to Gilgit. This might not be difficult as such, however, it'll be slow and one needs to be a bit methodical. Just to mention, Chitral-Gilgit passes trough Shandur Pass, so absolutely worth it. From Chitral to Islamabad, through Gilgit, takes at-least 3-4 days, and that too without any side tours.

However, both Gilgit and Skardu are accessible by car from Rawalpindi.

Hope this is helpful.

Muzzammil

Sunday, July 20, 2014

Karachi to Naran and Lake Saiful-Mulook: Itinerary, Logistics, and Cost



Asked

Dear Muzamil,

How are you , hope you are fine with good health. I have seen your blog on website regarding the tourism, it was awesome  and good article. We are couple want to avail our holiday from 26 of Ramadan to onward 4 august and we are from Karachi.  We last time, visited Muree , Patriayata and Isalamabad. Now we want to see another areas and need some guidance. Can you help me where to visis step by step with cost of living and meal etc if possible.

Thanks and Best Regards
TY

Replied

Hi TY

Thanks for your email and I'm glad that you found my blog helpful.

This year I suggest you to explore beyond Murree and Islamabad. You have ~10 days to spare - which means you can explore either Naran valley till Lake Saif-ul-Mulook or Kashmir's beautiful Neelum Valley uptill Arang Kel. (Google these places for photos and information)

Naran valley will be expensive so if cost is the constraint then Neelum Valley is a good choice.
For both, you have to first reach Islamabad/Rawalpindi. May I ask how do you plan this travel: by road, train, air, or you plan to take your own car?

So these are my first thoughts. Hopefully helpful. I'll wait for your feedback and will be happy to assist you in developing a good itinerary inshallah.

Regards

Muzzammil

Asked Again

Thanks you so much for your kind reply.

we will start my traveling from Karachi to Rawalpindi but still ticket not confirm for train or bus. 

I think I have to go to first taxila, onwards, abbotabad, naran, kagan, saiful malook, ansoo jheel and them up the bapostr. If you have any more ideas for more beautiful areas, then suggest me. But what will be cost , have no idea for that tour.   Will I get transport and accommodation easily during trip? And  how I can cut the cost .

I have 50000 Budget plan including traveling from Karachi to pindi.  I am fear that I will not get any train or bus ticket. Is Daewoo is feasible for long journey.

Regards
TY

Replied

My pleasure TY :-)

After reading your feedback, I've given that a thought and here is a rough plan from my side:

Day 1: Leave Karachi
Day 2: Arrive Islamabad/Abbottabad. Night stay.
Day 3: Arrive Naran. Night stay
Day 4: Visit Lake Saiful-Mulook. Possibly visit Aansoo Lake. Night stay in Naran
Day 5: Visit Babu Sar Pass. Night stay in Naran
Day 6: Arrive Shogran. Night stay in Shogran.
Day 7: Visit Sri Pai. The move to Islamabad. Night stay in Islamabad.
Day 8: Visit Taxila. Night stay in Islamabad
Day 9: Back to Karachi

Hope the above would be helpful. You might have noted that I have replaced Kaghan with Shogran plus Sri Pai. If you can add an extra day then extending your stay at Abbottabad would be worthwhile mainly to visit Thandyani. Further, I have kept Taxila for the tail-end of the trip so that it can also be used as a backup day should you desire to extend your stay in the hills or if it wouldn't go as per the plan, which is a possibility mainly because of the rainy weather.

Karachi-Islamabad Logistics:
I usually go by train; buy Karakoram Express Economy, which comes with the berth and an excellent dining car, for around Rs. 1,500, and unbeatable value for money. I go as far as Faislabad/Lahore and than continue by bus to Islamabad, another Rs. 700-800. But for Karkoram Express I doubt you will get seats now as a friend visited Northern Areas last month and he had to book that 2 weeks in advance, and then it might be Eid pressure now. However, you should try your luck as it is the most comfortable and cost effective option in my opinion, Don't go for any other train, as they might not be as reliable and can ruin up the whole trip. Business Train is a good possibility if that can fit into the budget. I guess it costs around Rs. 4,000-5,000 per person. Personally, I would avoid the Business Train as it adds not much for the extra cost.

Alternatively, Daewoo is the option. Bad thing is that it is too long a journey for a bus ride. Although it is comfortable and stops almost every two hours but still too tiring for me. Since you are two people, so the company might help. But the biggest advantage is that you can reach directly to Abbottabad, which I have also mentioned in the above plan. So in case I wouldn't get Karakoram Express ticket, I will go with Daewoo. And in any case, I will book the tickets without any more delay. Just to mention, one of my colleagues came back from Naran just last week and they did that the Daewoo way, however, it was an organized group.

Cost:
Rs. 50,000 is decent budget in my opinion. Main cost will be logistics, then hotel accommodation, and then food and other things.

Transportation Cost:
Let's take the Daewoo case. Their website (http://www.daewoo.com.pk/) shows Rs. 4,550 for Karachi-Abbottabad and 4,350 for Karachi-Islamabad. So it will be ~18,000 for the round trip. From Abbotabad to Naran, I will advise taking the public transport (usually hi-ace) which shall not cost more than 500 per person, so add ~2,000-3,000 for the round trip. Note that you may need to go to Mansehra/Balakot first if there is no direct transport from Abbottabad to Naran, In case, you opt for the hi-ace, be there at the bus station really early in the morning and ask for the front seats for a better experience. To avoid being cramped up, I usually buy an extra seat, especially when the front ones are not available.

For Lake Saiful-Mulook and Babusar, you have to hire jeeps. These jeeps can be found at Naran's main bazaar. They are usually lined-up and controlled by an association with fixed rates. Hiring one directly from there, rather than through the hotel or by some passing-by jeepwala, would give you cost and reliability advantage. Again the key would be to be there early, to beat the crowd. For Naran-Shogran and then Shogran-Balakot/Mansehra-Islamabad, I would go again with the public transport while for Sri Pai, the same jeep system works. For Taxila, you can hire a car from Islamabad, or contact PTDC Islamabad as I believe they arrange daily tours for that. Car shall not cost you more than Rs. 2,000 while the PTDC one can be cheaper and might include entrance fee and guide service - so the preferred option for me.

So in all, transportation may cost you around Rs. 25,000-30,000 for the whole trip.

Accommodation Cost:
You might have already noted that transportation cost is mostly not negotiable, unless you are relying much on taxi and car hire. On the other hand, it is the hotel expense which needs to be controlled and dealt with smartly otherwise your budget can be broken badly. It will be the peak tourist season so expect some outrageous price quotes from hotels, especially at Naran and Shogran. But there are way-outs indeed.

First and the most important is timing your arrival to a new destination. Try reaching as the first person, so leave the previous place really really early in the morning. As the day day passes, price quotes start reaching new skies. I know nothing can be more difficult for Karachiites than waking up early in the morning and getting to bed early in the evening, but as they say 'When in Rome, Do as Romans Do'. In this situation, we usually skip table breakfast and instead keep stuff which we can eat on the go. Other than better bargaining power, waking up early in the morning will also give you more daylight for sight-seeing, the main reason you will be committing this journey.

Additionally, doing some internet research about the hotel cost in your target destination can never be wasteful. There are many online resources available for that but I have particularly found http://www.pakwheels.com/forums/road-trips-vacations/ and wikitravel's pages helpful in this regard.

If you can keep the average cost of night stay around Rs. 1,500-2,000, which will be a good achievement, then it would total up to Rs. 10,000-15,000. So the overall cost is still within your budget.

What to Pack:
Don't load too much stuff as you will be mostly on the go but keep a couple of warm clothes as it will be very cold in Naran and Shogran.

So these are my two cents worth. Hopefully helpful. Please feel free to ask if you have more questions. And I would be glad if you keep me in updated of developments, with your convenience, and can share the feedback once you are back.

Happy travels.

Muzzammil


 

Tuesday, June 10, 2014

NATCO is the Best Transport for Gilgit

Asked

Hi:
I read your post on the blog about travelling to gilgit.
We are a group of people including kids and we are travelling to gilgit.
Can you please guide us as to how to go there and what is best and most economical way to get there.

thanks,

Replied

Hi there

Thanks for your email.
The best way to go to Gilgit is NATCO (Northern Areas Transport Company) bus which can be found at Pir Widhai Bus Station of Rawalpindi.
For Rawalpindi - Gilgit it takes atleast 16 hours and in case there is a landsliding, add 3-4 hours. The bus goes nonstop, i.e. without a night stay, and might be a hassle with the family. Still then, this is the most viable option in my opinion because of various reasons:

Firstly, this is a government owned company which matters a lot around Northern Areas as in remote areas no  private operators have more resources then the government.

Secondly, their staff, and specially drivers, are real experts of Karakoram Highway as most of them are driving there for whole of their life. In comparison to other bus operators, I found their staff more courteous and educated. In fact, you might be surprised to see that they are uniformed and cultured.

Thirdly, not only their buses are generally in good condition, but also they are more informed and have backup arrangements, in case of landsliding, etc.

In short, don't go for any other bus operator, and don't hire something because in most probability the driver will not be used to of the Karakoram Highway which will add significantly to the travel time, unless you hire jeeps, which will be highly expensive.

Besides, if you are going for recreation, then please note that the Gilgit city has not much to offer; it is a dirt commercial town. These are the surrounding valleys which you must be targeting, most notably Hunza. Hunza's main cities Karimabad and Aliabad are further 2-3 hours from Gilgit. So from Gilgit you have to take another transport to reach there. Alternatively, you may ask NATCO as they run direct buses from Rawalpindi to Aliabad which will be very helpful. For that, you may need to contact NATCO office at Pir Widhai and buy tickets in advance. If that's not possible then you may stick to plan A, i.e. Rawalpindi - Gilgit and then take another transport to Karimabad, Hunza.

Hope this will be helpful. Please feel free to email me should you have more questions.

Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Fairy Meadows: Travel Cost from Faisalabad

Asked
i m ahmad xxx

i m planning to spent 5 days in fairy meadow in md of june 2014.
can u plz help me by sending some material about ur experience in fairy meadows.
we r 4 people from faisalabad/
per head what could be expected cost
waiting anxiously
Replied
Hi Ahmed

Thanks for your email.

Fairy Meadows is a great place and this is the good time to visit.

Before I reply to your question, let me ask if you plan to drive yourself, or will rely on the public transport? In my opinion, public transport is much better unless you people are enthusiastic about self driving.

My these two posts will also be helpful in the meantime:

Regards

Muzzammil

Asked

thanks for ur reply
upto chillas or raikot we shall be on our vehicle.
Replied
Hi Ahmad

Thanks again for your email.

If you go your own vehicle then fuel will be your biggest cost. I guess it will be around 20,000, depending upon the route you chose and fuel average of the car.

From Raikot bridge, jeep will cost 5,000 for all of you. You have to hire full jeep no matter how many people you are and the cost includes the return journey as well. You will be paying after returning back.

From the point where jeep will drop you, you have to trek. This will need hiring of porters. 850 for 25 kg. For four people, you may need to hire 2 porters. So including the return it will be 4 x 850 = 3400 ~ 4000

For the night stay 1000 per person per night will be a good assumption, although you can negotiate for better rates. For 3 nights it will 12000 for all of you.

Meals are expensive at Fairy Meadows because it takes a lot of effort to cook food due to high altitude and low pressure. It would be better if you can take some food with you to bring the cost down. Still then it will around 2000-3000 per day for all of you. In all keep 12000 for meals for the whole trip.
 

So these are the main costs I could thought of. Lets summarize that:
1. Faisalabad to Raikot fuel: 20000 (including oil, etc)
2. Jeep: 5000
3. Porters: 4000
4. Night stay: 12000
5. Food: 12000
Total cost: 53000
Per head cost: 13250

You can bring some cost down by taking food and negotiating on accommodation and food cost. But in my opinion, 12000-12500 will be bare minimum.

Also, I have assumed that this is not a rented car, otherwise please add that cost also. Usually 15000 for 5 days. So the per head cost will now be 17000

Hope this is helpful. Please don't hesitate to ask if you have more questions.

Regards

Muzzammil

Sunday, February 9, 2014

Travelling to Northern Areas or Kashmir in February

Zohaib asked:


Hi Muzammil,

Is it advisable to travel to Kashmir or northern areas like Naran/Shogran in last week of February? Will everything be frozen? Will there be avalanches and road blocks? Is it useless to go during winter?

Regards,
Zohaib
Muzzammil Replied:
Hi Zohiab. Thanks for your email.
As you suspected, Kaghan valley will be closed for traveling now for blocked roads. As such there is no life around Kaghan valley around winters, and local inhabitants - if there are any - come down to lower mountains. The maximum you may go is Balakot.
On the other hand, Kashmir keeps open in winters; although it will be really cold out there.
Swat might be one option. Mingora keeps open in winters and you can make day excursion to Malam Jabba, which used to be the only ski resort in Pakistan before Swat operations.
Largely depends upon where are you going from, i.e. Karachi or Lahore? and with whom, i.e. family or friends?
For more insights, I find this forum really helpful:
http://www.pakwheels.com/forums/road-trips-vacations/

Hope this will be helpful. Please feel free to contact me if you need further information.
Regards

Muzzammil
http://mozumbus.blogspot.com

Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Exploring More of Pakistan

Asked
Salam Muzamil Bhai,

I write this email after reading your Travelogues. I am from Karachi and love to travel. Have seen better part of Pakistan. I never visited Balochistan but after reading your trip to Makran Coastal Highway I decided to just go without worrying about law and order scene. It was fruitful and if I had not came across to your blog I would have never knew what I was missing. 

Currently I am craving to see some mountains so I read your Kalash and Fairy Meadows trip. So here I am writing this to get your consultation about the areas to visit and plan efficiently. Brother I have seen Swa & Naran so I plan to see Gilgit Skardu side. Following your footsteps I have joined CS too. Please reply back and if possible please share your cell number.

Thank you again for writing fabulously.

I will be waiting for your reply.

Thanks.

JAVED
Replied

WS Javed and thanks for your kind words. I am pleased to know that my writings cause you to think about exploring more.

If you have been to Swat and Naran, then the next destination must be the Northern Areas. I have visited NA 3 times now; first explored Hunza and Khunjerab, second time visited Skardu and Deosai, and third time visited Kalash and Fairy Meadows. I also suggest you exploring Hunza first. The best time is summers, i.e. May to September.

In Balochistan, I would suggest exploring Makran Coast. If you have your own car, then going a day trip to Kund Malir and Buzi Pass is possible, if you plan well. Winters, i.e. now, is the best time to explore the Makran belt.

So thanks again, and please feel free to contact me when you have a firm plan. I will be there to add value to that.

Regards

Muzzammil
http://mozumbus.blogspot.com

Monday, November 25, 2013

Charna Island

Asked

Hi , i am a resident of karachi , kindly advice me if you provide services for arranging a fishing trip to charna island , wats the cost and equipment included etc , i would appreciate if u can pass me ur cell no i will contact u tanks  


Replied

Thanks Omer for your email.
Firstly, please note that I do not provide any services. The most I can do is sharing my travel experiences and providing the information to other fellows based on these experiences, without any benefit, commission, etc.
Coming to the topic, i.e. Charna Island, you may find this helpful:

http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2013/10/boating-adventure-fishing-around-charna.html
I can provide you with the contact details of the boatman, Arif: 03453742753
It shall cost you 35-40k for 15-20 persons, including full meals and basic fishing equipment, for a full day trip from Kemari. The other alternative is to reach Mubarak Village first by road and then negotiate with a boatman at Sonahra Beach. I believe this will be a lot economical, especially if there are fewer people than 15, but the first option is by far less uncomfortable.
Hope this is helpful.
Regards

Muzzammil

Thursday, November 21, 2013

Pakistan Visa for World Trip

Asked

Hey buddy! I read your blog and it was awesome. What neat pictures you've got there. Im in my way to Pakistan on the next year, trying to cross the border from India. So I'd like ti know about the visa I should get, and if it's easy to obtain. If you have any other advice please let me know. Thanks heaps!

Replied

Hi friend
Thanks for the email and for liking my blog.
And great to know that you plan a world trip and intend to crossover to Pakistan also.
Regarding visa, I understand that Pakistan visa can now only be obtained from one's country of permanent residence. Previously, this was not the case as one could also get it on-the-go, making things a lot easier. Otherwise, the border crossing is easy and fun. If you are coming to Pakistan around summers, then I would advise you to crossover to China after visiting Pakistan's splendid North.
Not to mention, if you happen to Karachi, my hometown, please feel welcome, and stay with me.
Regards
Muzzammil

Friday, November 1, 2013

Ormara Guidance

Asked
Hello I am planning to visit ormara beach via, Kund Malir and Winder. can you please guide me about current security situation? and is it better to stay at night on Kund Malir Beach ? In case we are planning our trip to ormara? what re the suggested timings to leave from Karachi ?

Replied
can you please guide me about current security situation?
Security is not as bad as hyped up in the media but off-course there are risks which can be managed by planning well. I would suggest wearing shalwar kameez and let the beard grow a bit, so that you can blend into the environment. Plan your stopovers beforehand to minimize the risk. People usually avoid stopping at Hub, which makes sense to me, except for re-fueling. There are multiple security checks en-route, cooperate with them, and in fact when I go I do ask them about the security issue ahead and give attention to their word. Overall, the route is uninhabited with a strong presence of Navy, especially around Ormara, so around Makran Coast you will not find yourself insecure. On the other hand, please drive carefully as this is sort of a freeway and there are no rescue options available. This is a bigger risk imo. Keep drinking water, extra fuel, etc with you.

and is it better to stay at night on Kund Malir Beach ? In case we are planning our trip to ormara?
I have never stayed at Kund Malir Beach, though I wanted to, but there are no accommodation. I know people who stayed there with their camps, so if you are used to it, then it is a possibility. You need to register with the Coast Guard, in case of nigh stay, who will keep your CNICs and return that to you the next morning. However, this is not recommended if you have not camped before in the wilderness.

The only other alternative for the night stay is Navy's mess at Ormara, which is off-course feasible if you have a connection in the forces.

what re the suggested timings to leave from Karachi?
If you are going for a day trip, i.e. same day return which is possible and I have done that a multiple times, then leave as early as possible. I'd suggest 4am, so that you will be there at the Coastal Highway around Sunrise. If this is a 2 days trip, even then don't leave later than 8am.

Below are some of my previous experiences which you will find helpful:

http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2010/09/makran-coastal-highway-karachi-to-pak.html
http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2012/02/karachi-to-gwadar-survival-tips.html
http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2010/10/chicken-karhai-on-makran-coastal.html
http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2012/02/trip-report-cruising-through-great.html
http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2010/09/one-road-two-thousand-kilometers-in.html

Hope you will find it helpful. Please feel free to ask if you have more questions.

Cheers and have a fun trip.

Muzzammil

Asked 
Firstly Thanks a lot for your kind response. I appreciate the way you facilitate me ๐Ÿ˜Š
Secondly your suggestion are so helpful for me and I visited this place twice earlier in 2010 and late in 2009 but never did camping. so for now I am leaving that option. I will make my trip for one day that will starts from 4am. (Inshallah) as per your suggestion. I never  had a chance to visit  Buzi Pass and ormara. so this time I am planning to visit those places also, kindly give me some guidance regarding routes and how much time and fuel will it take to visit Ormara, as we have no fuel pumps out there in entire Coastal highway.
Is it fine to visit Nani Mandir, next to hingol river ??
is it worthy to visit Ormara beach or you suggest to keep my journey reserved only to Kund Malir or maximum to Buzi Pass?
 
Replied
My pleasure Ahsan and I'm glad that you found my postings helpful.
Here goes response to your questions, hopefully not too late:

this time I am planning to visit those places also, kindly give me some guidance regarding routes and how much time and fuel will it take to visit Ormara, as we have no fuel pumps out there in entire Coastal highway.
Ormara is 80km from Kund Malir. So if you go non-stop then it will take an hour. However, if you stop around Buzi Pass and Princess of Hope then add another 1 hour. Since road is good it must not take more than 15 liters of extra fuel; keep 20 maximum. And keep a funnel with you, or alternatively you may stop by the make-shift fuel dhabaas and seek their help for funnel. There are a couple of pumps around Ormara but all sell low quality fuel which I would not like to rely on.

Is it fine to visit Nani Mandir, next to hingol river ??
Yes, it is absolutely fine and highly recommended. I took my coure all the way to Mandir and other friends have done that too and none reported any problems.


is it worthy to visit Ormara beach or you suggest to keep my journey reserved only to Kund Malir or maximum to Buzi Pass?
The best part of Ormara, i.e hammerhead at PNS Ahsan, lies with the Navy. Other than this also, I would recommend visiting Ormara since you have already been to Kind Malir. The beach is right at the main road near Ormara's main square and has great views with hammerhead in the background. There is a truck hotel too where you can have food and tea.
As far as the itinerary is concerned, I'd it the following way:
1. Karachi to Ormara, non-stop except for refueling and tea, leaving Buzi Pass for the return journey.
2. Ormara to Buza Pass.
3. Buzi Pass to Hingol, and there I will take decision to visit Nani Mandir keeping in view the time available. Keep 2 hours for that.
4  Hingol to Karachi. I would prefer crossing Hub not later than sunset.
So these are my two cents worth. Please do ask if you have more questions and please do share your experience once you are back.
Regards

Muzzammil

Asked
I’ve gone through all your instructions and found them very useful, In sha Allah I will leave early morning in coming xxxx with prioritizing your useful tips on primary basis. ๐Ÿ˜Š Of course once I would be back I will share my experience.
Thanks a lot  for your useful help just answer to my last question that we are planning to take fried rice with roasted chicken along with us on this journey. kindly suggest us that it is better to take food from here? as none of us is aware of cooking. I know there are no Dhabb’as kind of thing till Buzi pass. and another thing is that my friends are forcing me to travel before sunrise as they want to see star gazing and sunrise on Kund Malir beach.
Check my Plan and guide me if I am missing anything: (Travelling hours are expected)

Leaving time 0100
Kund Malir 0600 (stay)

Buzi Pass 1000 (short stay for canyons)
Ormara 1100 (stay at beach)
0200 Kund Malir (Desert exploring)
0300 Nani Mandir
0500 (way Back to Karachi)
 
we will take 40 liters of water in portable water coolers, Cold drinks along with chips and biscuits, Roasted chicken with chicken fried rice and planning to have a cup of tea in between different hotels.

Looking forward for your reply ๐Ÿ˜Š
Thanks a lot for such a kind response.


Replied
Thanks a lot  for your useful help just answer to my last question that we are planning to take fried rice with roasted chicken along with us on this journey. kindly suggest us that it is better to take food from here? as none of us is aware of cooking. I know there are no Dhabb’as kind of thing till Buzi pass
My pleasure. Regarding food, you may take it with you but I might go without food 1) to keep it light and 2) I found and tried a decent truck hotel right on Hingol bridge, before Buzi Pass. Once we even had live Chicken Karhai and absolutely loved that. There is a clean toilet also, which is a big luxury in the wilderness, so do ask for the keys from the waiter. At Ormara, you will find more options, but I have not tried any. It would be important to mention here that you may not need to go in the Ormara town, unless you would like to explore that, as the beach is on the main road. For en-route tea, I would suggest stopping at the dhaba located right at the junction of RCD Highway (the Quetta Road) and Makran Coastal Highway, and will highly advice not to stop-by at other places.

and another thing is that my friends are forcing me to travel before sunrise as they want to see star gazing and sunrise on Kund Malir beach.
Check my Plan and guide me if I am missing anything: (Travelling hours are expected)

Leaving time 0100 (Saturday)
Kund Malir 0600 (stay)
Buzi Pass 1000 (short stay for canyons)
Ormara 1100 (stay at beach)
0200 Kund Malir (Desert exploring)
0300 Nani Mandir
0500 (way Back to Karachi)
This is exactly how I would like to do that!
Have fun and have a safe journey.

Muzzammil

and here goes the hotel where we had Chicken Karhai from:

http://mozumbus.blogspot.com/2010/10/chicken-karhai-on-makran-coastal.html